Why is post-catalyzed conversion varnish a poor choice?

The maximum thickness of conversion varnish is normally 3 to (maybe)5 mils. A thickness higher than that and it will crack, chip and peel. Unless one of the painters has a very expensive in-shop computerized spray system how exactly do they know how many mils have been applied? The work on your cabinet cases will be done in your home, how will they measure that? How even is a coat sprayed by hand? Did you know a mil is 1/1,000th of an inch (it's not  millimeter). You can verify the conversion here.

A catalyst must be added to the mixture and disposal of left-over catalyzed material is required. Conversion varnish requires a minimum temperature of 70F to begin the cross-linking process. If the temperature is too low the required chemical reaction will not happen and the finish will not cure hard enough (lacking durability). Their process takes about 2 weeks for a reason. The cure time for conversion varnish takes much longer. That means you can't touch your cabinet cases for a couple of days after they spray them without getting impressions in the finish.

Originally, when conversion varnishes came out, they were not recommended for wear surfaces since they are very difficult to restore. Simple scuffs and scratches can't be easily rubbed out. Kitchen cabinets get scuffs & scratches, it's less expensive to repair the scuff than refinish the entire door or drawer.

We can go into a lot more detail about why our process is superior.

We think it makes more sense to go with a true wood care company than a newly minted hybrid paint service. And we guarantee it!

We apply a hand rubbed finish that is furniture grade.

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